Delphi to Meteora: Central Greece Attractions

The monasteries of Meteora.

Can I be honest?  Greece wasn’t really at the top of my list for travel destinations I wanted to visit.  I’m not exactly sure why that is.  I love ancient ruins, and Greece has a ton of those.  The quintessential picture of Greece, the blue domes and white walls of Santorini, is stunning.  But Rome wanted to go to Greece, and when I read about Tripology Adventures’ off-road trip through Central Greece, it sounded exactly like the adventure for us.  We always like a good drive.  What I didn’t anticipate was falling head-over-heels in love with all the varied landscapes and attractions of Central Greece.  What we discovered, with Tripology Adventures’ Greece road trip itinerary, was ancient monuments, picturesque villages, and nature, from impossibly clear blue seas, emerald rivers, green sceneries that rival Switzerland, and snow-capped mountain ranges. 

Piralia Distomou and the Bay of Corinth

Lunch with a view at Le Perroquet.

Our first introduction to Central Greece, after getting out of Athens, was lunch along the Bay of Corinth.  This was our first glimpse of Greek waters, which are crystal clear throughout the country.  How could we not start to fall in love with Greece with such a picturesque view?  We ate lunch at a lovely restaurant, Le Perroquet, which has an outdoor patio overlooking the bay.  The restaurant is located in the small town of Piralia Distomou, also called Aspra Spitia, which was originally founded to support the aluminum plant nearby.  Aspra Spitia means white houses, and it is called such because the white houses of the town were built for the aluminum plant workers.

Delphi

Delphi's Temple of Apollo.

One of Central Greece’s popular attractions is Delphi.  The story of Delphi begins with Zeus though, surprisingly, this is one of the few Zeus stories that doesn’t start with his hormones.  Zeus wanted to find the center of the earth, so he released two eagles at opposite ends of the earth.  Where they met was Delphi, which came to be known as the naval of the world.  Here Zeus threw a stone down, an omphalos or naval stone, to mark the spot.

Treasury of the Athenians.

Delphi is located at the base of Mount Parnassus.  The Temple of Apollo was built at Delphi in the 4th century BC.  People came to the Temple of Apollo in Dephi to visit the oracle.  While many think the oracle was a person, our tour guide Penny explained that the oracle was actually the site, not the person.   The message of the oracle was delivered by Pythia, the priestess who was an intermediary to Apollo, and interpreted by the priests of Apollo.  Pythia’s abilities are attributed to hallucinogenic vapors that came to the surface through faults in the ground below where the priestess sat.

Delphi Theatre, the best preserved monument of Delphi.

In addition to the Temple of Apollo, other monuments that can be visited are the Treasury of the Athenians, the Theatre, the Stadium, and the Polygonal Wall.  Not only can ancient Greek writing be found here, but also Greek songs, as some of the engravings have musical notes along with words.  

Charioteer of Delphi, one of few bronze statues surviving from Ancient Greece.

The museum at Delphi is also worth a visit as it displays many of the artifacts unearthed when the site was excavated. 

Celebrity tour guide Penny Kolomvotsou.
The writing is on the wall, but it's all Greek to me.

While most of the Tripology Adventures off-roading tour is guided by a Tripology guide, guided tours of sites like Delphi must be visited with a local Greek guide.  Tripology Adventures has been working with Penny Kolomvotsou for decades (not that she looks remotely old enough for that).  I was surprised to recognize her from an episode of Rick Steves' Europe.  (To book a tour with Penny, she can be emailed at kpagona@hotmail.com.)

Evrytania

Evrytania's Kremasta Lake.

I never imagined there were parts of Greece so green!  Evrytania is rightly referred to as the Switzerland of Greece and has some of the cleanest air in Europe.  This area of Central Greece is mountainous with emerald green rivers flowing between the mountains into Kremasta Lake.

Krikello

Krikello war memorial.

Krikello is a village in Evrytania where we stopped for lunch.  The village’s platia (town square) is large and open, has a war memorial, and is bordered on one side by a church.  

Krikello church.

When we arrived for lunch I noticed the church door was slightly propped open, so we got to take a peek inside.  The churches of Greece are very small compared to other European churches, but they are jam-packed with icons and other religious ornamentation.

Arachova

Homemade preserves and liqueurs.

We drove into Arachova, a mountain village of Central Greece.  These villages are precariously situated on the mountainside and aren’t easy to get to.  We stopped for coffee in Arachova at a kafenio (café) on the platia.  Our hostess had all of her homemade preserves and liquors on display.  We learned that these little villages were started by people who fled the towns of Greece and went to the mountains to escape the Ottomans.  Because these villages were in such remote areas, cut off from civilization, skills like making preserves became very important, and the tradition continues on today.

Megalo Chorio

This gentelman invited us to see a watermill at work.

We took a walk through another mountain village of Evrytania, Megalo Chorio.  Megalo Chorio is a village of stone houses riddled with narrow winding streets.  We visited a beautiful shop selling herbs, tea, preserves, and liquors.  We also got to peek into a working watermill and see dried corn being ground. 

Proussos Monastery

Proussos Monastery, a monastery built into a cave.

During the Iconoclastic Period religious icons were banned and destroyed.  A young man decided to save the Panagia Prousiotissa icon, the icon of the Virgin Mary, from Proussa of Asia Minor in the 9th century so it wouldn’t be destroyed.  The story goes that he brought it to Greece.  One night he fell asleep and when he woke up the icon had disappeared.  Some shepherds saw a light shining from a cave and found the icon there.  The young man went to the cave, retrieved the icon, and left.  When he fell asleep and awoke again, the icon was gone again.  The icon returned to the cave.  When the young man returned to the cave to retrieve the icon again, the icon asked to be left there.  Since the icon of Panagia Prousiotissa had chosen the cave, the young man built a chapel in the cave to house the icon.  The chapel remains to this day and has murals that date back to the 13th century.  Now an entire monastery surrounds the small chapel in a cave.  Some believe the icon gives the miracle of health, and there are stories of the icons miraculous powers.  Every year in August many make a pilgrimage to visit Panagia Prousiotissa. 

Pindus Mountain Range

There were still patches of snow on the Pindus mountains in May.

We had already seen so many different landscapes on our drive through Central Greece, and then we climbed high into the mountains of the Pindus mountain range.  We passed patches of remaining snow on the ground and could see Central Greece laid out like a carpet below us.

Meteora

Roussanou Monastery.

Meteora is a place that is on many people’s bucket lists.  Meteora is one of those sites that looks other-wordly and unlike anything around it.  The oddly-shaped rock columns shoot straight up from the ground into the heavens.  So of course someone looked at these sheer-faced pillars of rock and thought, “Let’s build monasteries on those!”

Great Meteoron Monastery.

Monastic communities began inhabiting the rocks, using ropes and ladders to get to the caves.  The construction of monasteries on the top of the rocks started in the 1300s and soon there were 24 monasteries.  The monasteries declined during the Ottoman period and today only six remain.  Two house nuns and four house monks.

Steps leading up to Great Meteoron Monastery.

We visited the highest, largest, and oldest of the Meteora monasteries, the Great Meteoron Monastery built on top of Megalo Meteoro.  The monastery is still active, with only three monks.  The monastery is reached by steep stairs winding up the side of the rock, created as recently as 1925.  Before then the monastery could only be accessed by baskets hoisted by a pulley system.  Electricity was added just 30 years ago.

The wine cellar of Great Meteoron Monastery.

During our tour of Great Meteoron Monastery we walked through the wine cellar, peeked into the ossuary where the bones of deceased monks are stored, and then visited the central church, the Church of the Transfiguration.  The church is small and divided into three sections.  The first section is covered in frescoes from the 1500s which still have their original paint.  The second section is full of icons covered in glass which pilgrims touch, either with their hands or a sacred object, for a blessing.  

Great Meteoron Monastery ossuary.

Unfortunately for tourists pictures can’t be taken inside the church, but they can be taken everywhere else around the monastery.  Also, women need to wear long skirts.  Wraparound skirts are provided at the entrance, but women might want to bring their own wrap.

Hiking through Meteora.

Meteora and its monasteries can be viewed in another way, and that is from hiking one of the trails that lead from the top, between the rock formations, down into town. 

Monument of Leonidas

This is Sparta!

Who would have thought this small, unassuming monument at the side of the road in the town of Lamia would spark such excitement.  If you’ve seen the movie 300 then you know about the very important Battle of Thermopyles which took place in 480 BC.  Admittedly, I have not seen the movie 300, so my knowledge of this battle was not up to the level of everyone else’s.  At this location Spartan King Leonidas and 300 Spartan soldiers, along with 700 Thespians, fought an uneven battle against the Persian King Xerxes and his army of almost two million soldiers to keep the Persians from getting through the Thermopyles Pass.  When the Persians told them to give up their arms, Leonidas replied, “Come and get them!”  Leonidas and his men fell heroically in battle, with Leonidas being beheaded.  While this battle was lost, shortly thereafter the Greeks were victorious over the Persians.

Kamena Vourla

Our view of the Northern Evoikos Gulf during lunch.

Our off-road trip started with lunch by the sea, so it was fitting that it ended with lunch by the sea as well.  This time lunch was in Kamena Vourla located on the shores of the Northern Evoikos Gulf.  Other than the river trout we had in Agrafa, we didn’t have much seafood in Central Greece, so it was nice to have lunch by the sea and eat lots and lots of seafood, including sea bass, sea bream, red mullet, calamari, and octopus.

The wonderful thing about our tour of Central Greece with Tripology Adventures was that everyday there was something different.  One day we would be visiting ancient ruins, another day we would visit small mountain villages, and another day we would be relaxing by a stream.  All of these varied sites combined together to make one wonderful and memorable trip through Central Greece.

Thank you to Tripology Adventures for hosting our off-road trip through Greece and making this post possible.  As always, all opinions are my own.

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The Best of Athens in One Day

Admittedly one day in Athens isn’t enough to really get to know the city, but oftentimes travelers to Greece spend very little time in Athens before heading out of the city to explore other parts of the mainland or one of the hundreds of islands.  So if you do only have 24 hours in Athens, it is best to have a game plan before heading out so you can see as much as possible in a short time.

It was no different for us when we traveled to Greece.  We had a few hours in Athens the day we arrived before leaving the next day for our off-road trip through central Greece.  We returned to Athens for one night and half a day, when we took our Athens food tour, before leaving again to explore Crete, and then at the end of our trip we had one full day to devote entirely to Athens.  While much of our time in Athens was scattered, our well-planned one day in Athens provided the perfect, albeit brief, overview of the city covering many of the more popular Athens tourist attractions.

National Archaeological Museum of Athens

Start your day at the National Archaeological Museum of Athens.  While every other site in this article can be reached and explored on foot, this museum is a little bit outside of the city center and is best reached by metro (Omonia stop on line 1 (green) or line 2 (red)).

Greek civilization is one of the oldest in the world and it is displayed step-by-step in this all-encompassing museum.  You can explore the museum on your own, but I highly suggest paying extra for the guided tour (50 euros split between however many people join the tour).  Our guide Andromachi did a wonderful job of tying thousands of years of history into one neat little package, all in one hour.

Our tour started with the Stone Age in 6000 BC when Gaia, goddess of earth, was the main god worshipped during a time when women were revered because their bodies had the magical ability to give birth.  We were surprised to learn people had gold jewelry in the Stone Age.  Men wore the symbol of the female and women wore the symbol of the male.

We moved on to the Cycladic period, 3000 BC, when the ancient Greeks built boats and sailed to Egypt.  The Greeks have a great way of telling stories, even ancient ones.  Andromachi told us how the Greeks arrived in Egypt, saw the pyramids, and asked the Egyptians how they were able to build such wondrous structures.  The Egyptians pretty much told the Greeks, y’all need to stop using those stone tools and start using these super cool bronze tools.  And that’s how the Greeks moved into the Bronze Age.

The National Archaeological Museum of Athens was built over 120 years ago to house the Mycenaean gold written about by Homer as well as other Greek antiquities.  One of the most well-known of these gold objects is the Mask of Agamemnon, though archaeologists now believe the mask was created a few hundred years before the time of Agamemnon. 

A heart-breaking exhibit of Mycenaean gold is that from the burial of a queen who died giving birth to twins.  There was a large gold crown for the queen, full-body gold coverings for the babies, and 1,000 gold rose pedals used to cover the queen and her babies.

Some other interesting pieces in the museum include a wine jug that has engraved on it what is believed to be the oldest existing example of writing using the Greek alphabet.  The Dipylon inscription on the wine jug roughly translates to say, “Now I belong to the man who is the best dancer.”  

The museum also displays the Artemision Bronze, believed to be either Zeus or Poseidon, which is one of only five bronzes in existence from the period 500 BC and was found in the sea of Cape Artemision.  Another impressive bronze statue is that of the Artemision Jockey from 140 BC.  This bronze was saved, in pieces, from a shipwreck in Euboea.  The statue is of a young jockey on a galloping horse, expressing so much movement and emotion.

Syntagma Square and the Changing of the Guard

After the National Archaeological Museum of Athens, grab the metro at Omonia and take line 2 (red) two stops to Syntagma, where you can visit Syntagma Square in front of the Greek Parliament and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  

The draw of this square is the hourly changing of the guard ceremony.  The guards, Evzones, wear the traditional kilts, red hat, white stockings, and shoes with pompoms, called tsarouhi.  You can even take a picture with one of the guards, but don’t try to make any funny poses or you will be reprimanded.  The ceremonial changing of the guard occurs on Sundays at 11:00.

Temple of Olympian Zeus

Walk along or through the National Garden to get to the Temple of Olympian Zeus.  The construction of this temple started as early as 515 BC, but progress was halted multiple times.  It was finally completed by Emperor Hadrian and was inaugurated in 131-132 BC.  The Temple of Olympian Zeus was one of the largest in the ancient world.  It started to fall apart in the 5th century AD.  Only 16 of the original 104 columns survive, one of which fell in a storm in 1852 and continues to lay in pieces on the ground.

Hadrian’s Arch

Just outside of the Temple of Olympian Zeus is Hadrian’s Arch.  Hadrian’s Arch was erected at the same time the Temple of Olympian Zeus was inaugurated.  It was built to honor Hadrian for his public works and it marked the boundary between the new and old city.  On the west side of Hadrian’s Arch was inscribed, “This is Athens the ancient city of Theseus,” and on the east side, “This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus.”  The arch was converted into a gate in 1778.

Stroll the Plaka and Monastiraki Neighborhoods

From Hadrian’s Arch you’ll cross the busy Vas. Amalias Avenue and enter the popular Plaka neighborhood.  Meander through the Plaka and Monastiraki neighborhoods, passing sites like the Clock of Kyristos, Roman Agora, and Library of Hadrian to get to the Ancient Agora.  You can even take a slight detour and walk part of Ermou, Athens’ shopping street, and pass through Monastiraki Square with its little church right in the center of the square.

Ancient Agora and the Museum of the Stoa of Attalos

The Agora was the heart of the ancient city of Athens, the center of democracy, and the world’s first parliament.  The Stoa of Attalos has been reconstructed and now houses the museum with items found in the Agora, including artifacts related to Athenian democracy like the tools used for ostracism, the act of temporarily banishing corrupt politicians from the city.

Acropolis Museum

To make sure you get 360-degree views of the Acropolis, continue circling the Acropolis counter-clockwise by following Apostolou Pavlou, a tree-lined street with outdoor eateries and stands selling souvenirs, and Dinyssiou Areoragitou through the ritzy Anafiotika neighborhood to get to the Acropolis Museum. 

The Acropolis Museum was first created in 1863 and was on top of the Acropolis, but the new Acropolis Museum was completed recently, in 2007.

We found that the best way to explore the Acropolis Museum is to start at the top floor and first watch the short film about the Acropolis.  The museum has a very well put together exhibit on the top floor that mimics the Parthenon, with metal columns representing the stone columns of the Parthenon and the statues and carvings salvaged from the Parthenon, plus some reproductions, displayed in the exact same way they would have originally been on the Parthenon.

A floor below contains five of the six caryatids, female figures, which acted as columns of the Erechtheion’s Porch of the Caryatids.  The Erechtheion is one of the smaller ancient Greek temples on the Acropolis.  The exhibit one floor below that contains a number of sculptures and artifacts found in the slopes of the Acropolis.

Acropolis

We saved the best for last, the Acropolis.  There is a method to this madness.  The Acropolis gets hot and crowded, which does not make for a fun viewing experience.  The best times to visit the Acropolis are first thing in the morning or at the very end of the day.  As I’m not a morning person, the end of the day was a better choice.  The crowds are far less at the end of the day, the temperature is cooler, and the light for photos of both the temples and the city below is best late in the day.

The Acropolis is the huge rock that juts out of the center of the city of Athens.  The Acropolis was always an important religious center and sacred.  Temples were first built on the Acropolis in the 11th century BC.  The Parthenon, dedicated to the goddess Athena, the namesake of the city, was completed in 438 BC and surprisingly took only nine years to build.  The frieze was completed after only another six years.

The Parthenon had to first be reconstructed in 267 AD when it was destroyed by a fire.  The Parthenon continued as a temple to Athena for a couple more hundred years until it was ordered that all pagan temples were to be closed.  The Parthenon was later converted into a Christian church, then a Roman Catholic church, and later an Islamic mosque.  In the 1600s the Parthenon sustained the most devastating damage when an explosion occurred.  Finally in 1801 the Earl of Elgin came and removed sculptures and demolished buildings.  Today the Parthenon is in the midst of the very long process of restoration.

After viewing all the angles of the Parthenon and the other temples on top of the Acropolis, it is nice to just take some time to sit, relax, and take it all in.  The Acropolis provides 360-degree views of the sprawling city of Athens, all the way to the sea.  While enjoying the view, you can also enjoy the sounds of the city.  Some of those sounds include sirens and traffic noises, but they’re also the sounds of birds chirping, church bells ringing, and music.

When it’s time for the Acropolis to close, you’ll hear guards blowing whistles and asking people to start heading towards the exit.  If you wait until the very end, you’ll see the military march up the steps to enter the Acropolis and make sure everyone is gone.  If you haven’t had enough of the Acropolis yet, head to one of Athens’ rooftop bars for more views.

Where to Eat in Athens

Of course amongst all this sightseeing, you’ll need to find some nourishment.  There are numerous restaurants and eateries throughout Athens.  Here are a few restaurants we tested in Athens’ popular neighborhoods.

Diodos Archaias Agoras (ΔΙΟΔΟ – ΑΡΧΑΙΑΣ ΑΓΟΡΑΣ) – This restaurant is part of a row of restaurants between the Thisio and Monastiraki neighborhoods northwest of the Acropolis at 19 Adrianou Street.  The restaurant serves a number of traditional Greek foods, provides a view of the Acropolis from over the Agora, and sometimes even gets some added entertainment, like a fire breather.

Aischilou Grill House Psyri (Αισχύλου Ψητοπωλείο Ψυρρή) – If you’re looking for meat, meat, and more meat, with the possibility of sides of salads and seafood, Aischilou Grill House in the Psyri neighborhood at Aishilou 14-16 is the place for you.  You can order kebab, souvlaki, gyros, lamb, or a mixture of meats with the mixed grill.  What I really loved about this restaurant was the décor.  The walls were plastered with old Greek movie memorabilia.  They also have live bouzouki music at night and a little dancing.

To Kaveneio (Το Καφενείο) – To Kaveneio is a traditional coffee shop on a narrow sloping street in the middle of the Plaka neighborhood at Epicharmou 1.  They have tables inside and outside, are open all day, and also sell small plates, making it the perfect place for lunch while exploring Athens. 

Thanasis Souvlaki (Ο Θανάσης) – Thanasis came highly recommended by our waitress at Point α Bar as the best place for souvlaki.  Her opinion was confirmed when we asked a storekeeper for directions.  Thanasis Souvlaki is in Monasteraki at Mitropoleos 69.  The restaurant has been around for decades and is popular with the locals.

Air Lounge Bar and Restaurant – If you’re looking for a break from traditional Greek food, but don’t necessarily want to eat non-Greek food (a conundrum I know), head to the rooftop restaurant and bar of the Fresh Hotel Athens.  Air Lounge Bar serves modern Greek food with a side of Acropolis view.

Where to Stay in Athens

If you’ve got a full day to spend in Athens, you’ll also need a hotel.  We loved our stay at the colorful Fresh Hotel in Athens.  The Fresh Hotel is located just north of the Psyri neighborhood.  The area is covered in graffiti and street art, but feels very safe.  There are always people out and about, even late at night.  Psyri, Monastiraki, and the shopping street of Ermou are an easy walk from the hotel.

Rooms are modern, minimalist, and very comfortable.  The white rooms are accented with bright colors like green curtains, red glass enclosed showers, and orange shower curtains.  After staying in a number of hotels throughout central Greece, I was also very appreciative of the number of easily accessible outlets in the room which we could use for charging our phones and camera batteries and also of the strong wifi.

Booking.com

As mentioned above in the dining section, the hotel has a very good rooftop restaurant and bar.  They also serve a very nice breakfast in the morning with Greek pastries and yogurt, fresh-squeezed orange juice, eggs, meat, bread, cereal, and more.

So there you have it, what I think is the perfect itinerary for one day in Athens.  There are so many things to do in Athens, but these provide a great overview of the city and the history of Athens.

Thank you to the City of Athens Convention & Visitors Bureau, Fresh Hotel, and Tripology Adventures for hosting our time in Athens and making this post possible.  As always, all opinions are my own.  This post contains affiliate links.  If you book through them, it costs you nothing extra and we earn a small commission which goes towards running this website and bringing you more travel stories.

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